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The dress of Kievan Russia
The female shirt was long, to the heels. It had long sleeves folded to the cuff and a neck with a buttoned cut-out. A shirt at a neck and a cut-out was decorated with an embroidery or a strip of a ferret. A shirt was made from a white linen or colour silk and worn with a belt.
Over a shirt there was a poneva. It was a skirt consisting of three not joined rectangular breadth of cloth which were fixed on a belt. Poneva was shorter than the shirt, and it didn’t lap over. Poneva was often made from pestryad’, a fabric with check and rhombic pattern.
Zapona was overclothes – laid on clothes like naramnic made from a breadth of cloth not joined on each side. Zapona was also shorter than a shirt. It was worn with a belt and pinned at hem. A nagrudnik , shorter upper clothes with wide short sleeves, was decorated on a bottom, a cut-out and sleeves. It was also worn over a shirt.
Female dress of a feudal nobility, except for a shirt, was characterized by the Byzantine forms of clothes: tunics, dalmatics, draped coats. Female overclothes were svits which differed from the male ones by wider sleeves.
Headdresses played a big role in a female as well as in a male dress. Girls wore long flowing hair or a very tight plait low on a nape. The hairdo was decorated with a silk embroidered tape, a wooden or leather hoop with a high gear forward part. The bandage was called chelo kichnoe, the hoop - a venets . Rings and forehead metal ornaments were attached to them. Married women covered hair by povoinik of a thin fabric or a silk netting. Povoinik consisted of dno and okolysh which was fastened behind very tightly. Over povoinik a linen or silk ubrus of white or red colour was worn. Ubrus had the form of a rectangular 2 metres long and 40-50 sm. wide. One end of it was embroidered by a colour silk pattern and hanged down on a shoulder. The other end was tied over a head and pinned under a chin. Ubrus could have the triangular form with both ends pinned under a chin. Noble women wore a cap with fur edging on ubrus.
The female and male footwear was different in social strata. The aristocracy, princes and boyars, wore soft boots without heels made from colour leather and embroidered at toecaps and sole. Peasants wore lapti with onuchas .
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