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Tsaritsa’s clothes
The sorochka was the underwear. The sorochka made of linen was called ‘white’. It was worn close to body. The upper sorochkas had the same cut with that difference that an they were wider and longer and had long sleeves. The upper sorochkas were made of light silk fabrics. They were domestic daily clothes worn with a belt, emphasizing the lines of women’s silhouette. Telogreya was the most common everyday clothes. It was a loose dress, fastened in front by small buttons or stripes. Fabrics used for telogreyas were heavier, than for the upper sorochkas.
Light or summer telogreyas were lined with taffeta.
To such kind of daily clothes a mantled fur coat belonged as well. It had the same cut as sorochkas without hem slits. It was cut down to toe. The hem was widened by gussets.
Letnik was laid-on overclothes. It was put on from head hence had the same cut as sorochkas without hem slits. Voshvas were essential parts in the letnik ornament. They were small
gussets of atlas or velvet, embroidered with gold, pearls, metal plates and silk. Such voshvas were stitched from the cut-out to the breast. Autumn or winter letnik was beautified with a beaver fur collar. Fur for collars was usually tinted in black colours to emphasize the whiteness and high colour of skin.
Letnik cut in flaps was called rospashnitsa or opashnitsa.
Kortel’ was winter fur clothes. It was always decorated with voshvas and podol’nik. Kortel’ was trimmed with fur.
Torlop was identical to kortel’ - fur clothes covered with taffeta and decorated with voshvas on sleeves.
Over some clothes (letniks and fur coats) a fur collar covered the shoulders.
In winter for hand protection from cold, besides warm mittens sometimes tsarinas wore muffs.
Tsaritsa’s footwear consisted of: stockings, shoes, boots, chjobots and ichedygs
Boots were made from velvet, atlas and saffian. The essential part of boots were ichedygs or ichedogs - stockings which were always made from saffian without a sole. Cherevinkis – footwear like shoes and ichedogs - are also mentioned as tsaritsa’s footwear.
Female chjobots – a kind of boots - were made from saffian, velvet and atlas.. They were boots with tops.
The leather footwear called sapogs (boots) were not used by tsaritsas but were made only for court women.
For keeping flowing hair in order a bandage like silk or gold narrow ribbon was necessary.
Such ribbon with pearl edging round the head was called venets. In the 16th -17th centuries the venets was an obligatory headwear of tsarevnas from small age.
Married women put their hair in podubrusnik, a sort of povoinik or a light cap. The name signifies that it served only as a part of another headwear ubrus – a thin linen breadth of cloth, polka in short. Ubrus was tied on a head in a beautiful knot.
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