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Dress of peasants
In the second half of the XIX century and the beginning of the XX century the peasants’ clothes were greatly influenced by the common fashion which at first reflected in the use of factory fabrics, trimmings, headdresses, footwear, and then in the change of dress models.
Female dress in northern and southern areas differed in some details, in trimming arrangement. The main peculiarity of the northern dress was dominance in sarafans, while in southern way of wearing poneva was more important.
The basic parts of a female national dress were rubakha, perednik, or zanaveska, a sarafan, a poneva, a bib, a shushpan.
Both female and male rubakhas were of straight silhouette, with long sleeves. A red pattern of embroidery decorated white rubakhas on a breast, in the bottom of sleeves and in hem. The most complex, multi-figured compositions with large pictures (fantastic female creatures, fairy-tale birds and trees) were on the hem of rubakha. For each part of a shirt there was a traditional ornamental variant.
In southern areas the straight cutting of shirts was more comlicated, done by means of the so-called poliks- the details of a cut connecting the front and the back parts on shoulders. Poliks could be direct and slanting. Poliks of the rectangular form connected four breadth of linen cloth 32-42 sm. wide each The wide basis of slanting poliks (in the form of a trapeze) were joined to a sleeve, the narrow one - with an edging of a neck .Both the stitches were decorated with ornaments.
The most decorative and richly trimmed part of both a northern, and southern female dress was perednik, or zanaveska, covering a women figure in front. An apron was usually made of linen, it was embroidered with colourful decorative gussets and silk patterned ribbons. An apron was edged with white or colour laces, silk or woolen fringe and frill of different width
Northern peasant women wore linen white shirts and aprons with sarafans. In the XVIII century and in first half of the XIX century sarafans were made from self-coloured, non-patterned fabric of dark blue linen, sheeting, red krasheninas, black homespun wool. The multi-patterned and colourful embroidery of shirts and aprons looked very attractive on a dark smooth background of sarafans. The most widespread type of sarafans was a sarafan with a stitch in the middle of the front part, trimmed with patterned ribbons, a tinsel lace and a vertical line of copper and tin buttons. Such sarafans had a silhouette of the truncated cone flaring to hem (up to 6 ì), giving harmony to a figure.
The clothes of Russian North preserved some characteristic features of an old Russian dress like "epanechkas" and dushegreyas, cotton wool quilted, with sleeves. On fig. on the left - a dress of peasant woman of the Tver’ province: a sarafan, "epanechka", a brocade rubakha and a smart kokoshnik.
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