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Waist clothes
In Russian national costume there existed ancient headdresses, as well as the custom to hide hair for married women, and to leave it uncovered for girls. Such custom influenced the form of a female headdress. Thus women wore closed caps and maidens hoops or bandages. Kokoshniks , "sorokas", various povyazkas and venets’s were widely spread.
The most common jewelry was pearl, beaded, amber, coral necklaces; pendants, beads, ear-rings.
Female footwear was leather half boots, kots edged by red linen or saffian, and laptis with onuchas as well.
In South Russian costume poneva was more widespread than sarafan. Poneva was belt clothes made from woolen fabric, sometimes on a linen lining. Fabric used for poneva more often was dark blue, black or red in colour, with check or striped (with a cross-section arrangement of stripes) pattern. Every day poneva was trimmed modestly with a woolen homespun patterned band on a hem. Holiday poneva was richly decorated with embroidery, a patterned band, gussets of kumatch, krashenina, tinsel lace and spangles. The wide horizontal stripe of a hem was combined with proshvas, vertical colour gussets. The colour of ponevas was especially bright due to its dark background.
On fig. on the right - a dress of a peasant woman of the Orlov province: a homespun linen shirt with embroidered patterned sleeves; a richly decorated perednik - zanaveska; dark blue check poneva with colour stripes and a patterned band on a hem; a headdress - "soroka" with a scarf over it.
The design of poneva represents three - five breadth of cloth joined on an edge. Poneva could be high-necked as well as a loose one. Loose ponevas were sometimes worn "with a girted-up hem" In such a case poneva was ornamented from a wrong side.
The attractive stateliness and the dignity of bearing of a female figure couldn’t be seen in poneva. The waist underlined by poneva was usually masked by a shirt or an apron. Nagrudnik – loose or laid-on clothes of wool or linen of a straight silhouette was often worn over a rubakha, a poneva and a perednik. A bib was trimmed by a band at a neck, a board, a hem and a bottom of sleeves
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