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The beginning of the century
Female independence and emancipation which had a great success in the 20th takes its beginning in the 10th of the XX century. The first breakthrough was when women took off corsets. The birth of two new styles was the reason to it in the beginning of decades. The first style is connected with the success of the Dyagilev's "Russian seasons" in Paris. The theme of the East from scenic costumes of Lion Bakst came to the fashion of Paris, and then of all civilized world. This style gave free silhouettes, violence of paints, abundance ornaments with feathers and naked shoulders.
The second style was born in Paris in the beginning of 1910, too. It is connected with the revival of ideals of antique classics. The silhouette of straight lines and a waist is not tightened. The neck is also open. The new fashion made women think not only about clothes, but also about their bodies. Ladies start to care of their skin and figure (corsets were off, but gracefulness was still in fashion).
In 1914 the First World War began. All the luxury of the East, feathers and fans, laces and precious bracelets disappeared. Women started to work instead of men who were at the front. They needed more simple and practical dresses which do not demand spending many hours clothing accompanied by a maid. Economy and practicality were of great importance during the war. At that time Coco Channel presented to working women new practical elegance: jersey, man's hats and shoulder bags. This business lady had absolutely nothing in common with a refined woman of the beginning of century.
The twenties were the time of a generation of women. This time is inseparably related to the name of the "great mademoiselle" Gabriel (Coco) Channel. She defined a new style of women who were allowed to vote and to choose a job. Woman took off corsets and dared to show legs. The skirt was shortened up to knees; nude stockings naked women's legs. In the USA, in Utah, there was a law which allowed arresting women with bared calves. Women felt themselves free from marriage, modesty and long hair.
Woman began to work actively in those areas which earlier considered to be for men only, they began to go in for sports.
Simple and sensible clothing was necessary for this purpose. Channel presented such clothes to women. She made jersey fashionable clothes for ladies from the highest society, presented the world-known Channel #5, and in 1924 invented a little black dress which remains the standard of elegance even today. She also made jewelry accsessible for wearing by all layers of society. The underwear was minimized up to a short combination; panties a girdle for stockings.
The independence of female travelling brought into fashion pajamas; attending discos shortened evening dresses. Shoes with membranes were very popular and because it was easy to dance Charleston, ragtime and foxtrot in them. Vamp-women appeared, with black shadows and black lipstick.
In our country of the 20s Lila Brick appeared on Alexander Redshank's photos defines the image of a Soviet girl. This girl in a kerchief looks at us from "Lenazdat" posters till now.
Beauties of the 20s wear loose dresses and blouses with low waistline which was frequently underlined by a decorative belt. Figures on fabrics under the influence of constructivism were mostly geometrical: stripes, zigzags, circles, squares, etc. It was actual especially in our country. Beauties wore pumps with short steady heels.
The Great depression, hungry children, disasters of millions was combined with the luxury of beau-monde. Beautiful ladies living in palaces and starving children in slums. This is the picture of the 30s.
The poor wear crumpled hats with broken visors, trousers and skirts made from rough materials. And true ladies compete with each other in grace, not noticing what is difficult not to notice. The fashion is dictated by Hollywood where the new images, new ideals are created.
Who is she, a mysterious heroine of the 30s? A famous movie star Greta comes to memory. Her dresses are as elegant and womanly as she is. Madeline Vionne brings in a fashion an evening draped cut bias dress which seductively fits hips and flares to hem. Every respecting herself party girl has pleated skirts and sports slippers in her wardrobe. Greta Garbo likes to decorate herself; she does not go out without a Gypsy-hat, a fur boa or a long scarf. It is considered to be absolutely indecent to go out without gloves. She has a small graceful handbag in her hands which can hardly receive a cosmetic bag and keys. Footwear was on steady heels. Shoes on platforms come to fashion.
In Russia women of solid build were of great value. A strong woman that could "pull a horse up short and come into a burning house". Lyubov Orlova fitted that ideal. She was blonde with thin features, but her figure was far from being slim.
The 30s can be characterized as the time of a true lady who cannot be found in the twenties.
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